This is easier than it looks, and I find it a lot more exhilarating than normal body surfing, however this technique is recommended for experienced body surfers only (see warning below).
Catch a green breaking wave as you normally would, then on last stroke dip your head underwater as you pull your arms back by your side in one powerful motion with a swift butterfly kick. Like a breaststroke start for those who have swam before.
Here’s the difficult part, tilt your head down so that you remain just below the surface as you are going down inside the face of the wave, too little will mean you will come spearing out of the wave and too much will mean you will ram
your head into the sandbank, which isn’t a good thing (see warning below). Your head will be a lot lower than your feet which will be at the top of the wave crest
Continue fluent butterfly kick and keep head position, you will get faster and faster as the wave prepares to break and the feeling is quite amazing. Just as the wave is going to break, and this comes from knowing the motion of the waves, tilt your head up slightly and you will spear out with the white-water. Throw your hands forward after exit into streamline position if you want to continue on wave
Warning there is a risk of hitting your head on the sand bank or other swimmers in front of you and causing neck damage. You must ensure no one is in front of you before body surfing a wave with this technique, best not to perform in swimming areas amoungst large crowds of swimmers